Ocean Waves
ocean waves vocabulary
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Topics of this game:
- caused by winds and surface currents
- highest point of a wave
- lowest point of a wave
- verticle distance between trough and crest
- distance between crest and crest
- time a wave takes to pass a point
- sea surface rising and falling in a pattern
- how fast the wind blows
- ratio between wave height and wavelength
- bottom of the ocean
- the movement of material that result in constant interaction of swash and backwash
- how long the wind blows in one direction
- Tube or pipe shaped waves, a plunging wave occurs when the ocean floor is steep or has sudden depth changes, such as from a reef or sandbar.
- Spilling waves occur when the ocean floor has a gradual slope, the wave will steepen until the crest becomes unstable, resulting in turbulent whitewat
- When a wave breaks, water is washed up the beach.
- When gravity draws the water runs back down the beach
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